At a certain time of day, the North End can trick you. You're hurrying down a side street on the way to a restaurant and suddenly the fading sun turns worn brick to gold. An elderly woman in a blue housedress ducks into a basement produce shop on Parmenter Street where fava beans and asparagus are on display. Two men sit over espresso at a sidewalk table, voluble Italian spilling into the street. You could be in the Old World, as time stops for a moment in one of Boston's oldest neighborhoods.

Once cut off from the rest of the city by the now-underground Central Artery, the North End has been home to successive waves of immigrants -- from the early colonial settlers to Irish Catholics and Eastern European Jews to Italian Catholics. Though today the compact area -- it's less than a square mile -- has seen gentrification and newer immigrants, the Italian stamp remains, especially evident in its food. Anthony Susi, chef and owner of Sage on Prince Street, grew up a few blocks away in a brick building on Hanover Street, the apartments on each floor occupied by his extended family. As he walks through its streets, he calls out greetings and exchanges handshakes every block or so.

For most of Boston and beyond, the North End means restaurants -- 50 to 100, depending on if takeout sandwiches and pizza slices are included. Once, most restaurants were predominantly red-sauce places with hearty, tomato-heavy immigrant dishes. But like several of the neighborhood's other chefs, Susi -- as famous for his New American creations as for his light potato gnocchi -- uses an Italian sensibility to create an eclectic cuisine. His little restaurant (only 28 seats) is packed most nights, and he and Sage have won national recognition. Other favorites in this dining mecca include such places as Terramia, Bricco, Maurizio's, and Artu.

On a warm day, Salem Street is crowded with residents and tourists. Traffic clogs the streets: "This is where I learned to drive," Susi says, smiling when a delivery truck swerves close to pedestrians. We duck into Abruzzese Meat Market, where Susi's father, Frank, is weighing veal loins for Christopher Bussell, chef of the nearby Terramia. Frank Susi has owned this shop for 42 years, and its worn butcher block, the sawdust on the floor, and the postcards from the 1960s taped to the walls attest to its age. "I sell a little bit of everything," he says, adding that his customers include several generations.

"This is where I come for my sugar fix," says Anthony Susi, as he heads into the back room of Dairy Fresh Candies, a gleaming cornucopia of nuts, dried fruit, chocolate, candy, and Italian olive oils and coffee. John Reilly, one of the owners, says the shop, which has been open since 1957, sells lots of chocolate in the months leading up to Christmas. Now "because of the Atkins craze, nuts are the big seller," he says, pointing out five different varieties of almonds.

"I'm usually here late mornings," Susi says of Caffe Graffiti, an espresso bar on Hanover Street. The front of the cafe is open to the street on a fine day, and one of the owners, Luigi DeMarco, is standing outside chatting with customers and passersby. "The best coffee in the neighborhood, and the best smile," Susi says as he shakes DeMarco's hand. DeMarco, whose family has owned the cafe for 14 years, says it takes good people and good ambience to be successful. "I know 80 percent of the people who walk through this door," he says, as two women behind him converse over little cups of espresso.

The imposing dark brick of Sacred Heart Roman Catholic Church on North Square off Hanover Street bears a handwritten sign: "Save Sacred Heart Church. Keep Our Faith Alive." This is where his parents have always gone to church, Susi says, and it's one of the few in the area where Mass is still said in Italian. The church, which after recent church closings is going to be preserved as a chapel, is closed on a weekday, but a few pupils with their parents are walking away from St. John's Parochial School next door. Across the square, schoolchildren on a tour congregate on the little grassy island in front of the church, hearing the story of Paul Revere's ride to Concord before they go to see the Colonial hero's dark-timbered house.

Susi strides into Tutto Italiano, a specialty cheese and Italian products store on Fleet Street, greeting the owner and checking out fresh mozzarella made that morning. Joseph Locilento, who owns this shop with his family, also sells Susi prosciutto, mascarpone, and gorgonzola cheeses. The two talk about Basilicata, where the owner's family comes from, and the olive oil made there. As we leave, Susi says that, as a child, he was allowed only as far down Hanover as Fleet Street where we're standing. "I had to be within yelling distance when my mother called out the window," he says.

"Locals call this the Prado," Susi says as we head into Paul Revere Mall, a long corridor lined with trees and flowers. A statue of Revere astride his horse stands in

the center of the park with historic Old North Church in the background, a natural for tourist photographs over the years. A fountain splashes before the entrance to the church, and children's voices can be heard from a nearby playground. The park is shady and quiet in midday, away from crowded Hanover Street.

There's just one last stop: a little greenspace, the Charter Street Playground. "Here's where we played ball when we were kids," he says. His family's garden is beyond the fence, and as he points out the vegetables and his mother's flowers, a face appears. "Tony," calls out Susi's grandmother, waving from her third-floor window. Grandson and grandmother exchange greetings, melodious Italian wafting through the air.

Judy's Book Boston

Tutto Italiano is an excellent Italian delicatessen located in the heart of the North End. They serve simply the best sandwiches with the best imported meats and cheeses. Sandwiches can be custom-made upon ordering, or you can choose from one of the menu's ever-changing selections. On some days, they have wine tastings to go along with the food. It's an excellent value for Boston's North End. Service is always efficient and courteous.

Posted on 12/29/2006


Great Traditional Panini

If you're looking for a traditional italian panini, this is the spot. Their Prosciutto di Parma sandwich is among the best in the area. They freshly slice their prosciutto made to order and they give you more than two peices like most places.

Boston Italian (North End) Neighborhoods Tour
We have sold this tour out the past 2 years but wanted to offer it again. How often can you tour these historic and often, controversial Boston neighborhoods conducted by a life-long Bostonian from Southie? Our guide, Mark Conde, has cooked in some of Boston’s finer restaurants, was the personal chef to Red Sox players, and studied in Italy. He has conducted Boston tours for several years and cultivated relationships with many of the special off-the-beaten path specialty shops we will visit. Mark will show us his favorite places to shop and, of course, eat. We will enjoy samples of gourmet Italian meats, cheeses, and candies along the way. So bring your appetites, walking shoes, a cooler, and be ready to shop.
One of our first stops will at Joe Locilentos store, Tutto Italiano, to watch him make mozzarella cheese from scratch!
We will end our tour at Purity Cheese. Of all the specialty stores in the North End have some of the best products at the best prices. They make their own ricotta in the back room and you can sample gourmet cheese from red-haired cows herded in the Italian Alps (no kidding)! After our tour of the North End, we sit down for a cozy glass of wine in one of our favorite North End restaurants. What a gem - Irish and Italian culture and foods, classic Boston at it’s finest. You’ve always wanted to see the North End from a resident’s viewpoint. Book your reservation quickly, as we expect this tour will sell out fast. The tour cost is $40 per person, including wine & food tasting our way through Boston. Remember, the tour capacity is 22 people so reserve early.



Beth Terrio
"I don't know what I'd do with out Tutto Italiano. The home made mozzarella is the best in Boston and better than some I've had, while living in Italy! The products are fresh and the selection of imported Italian products, makes it worth a visit to Tutto Italiano. Great service too! "

Gregg
"I love it here!"

Diandra
"Awesome customer service and food. Let me tell you...the closest to Italy I can get to!!"

Gaetana Rocca
"Tutto Italiano has the most amazing home made foods and food selection. The people are amazing cooks and so welcoming. Thank you tutto italiano for being the best of Boston!"

Nina Gaetana
"Tutto Italiano has the most fantastic Focaccia Bread on Sunday morning, home made from start to finish. The smell from the oven just brings me right home to Italy! "

Nina Rocca
"Tutto Italiano has an amazing grocery selection where I can purchase the best product Nutella staight from Italy!!! "

Mehgan
"Tutto Italiano e il migliore!! I am from CA and I come here EVERY time I am in Boston."

Amelia
"I love everything about this place. I've had everything from the homemade mozzarella to the pizza muffins, and everything is delicious. Joe and Rosa are two of the nicest people in the North End! "

Theresa Gates
"They have the best Italian sandwiches ever made. "

Cheyenne
"Best sandwiches ever! This is a classic Italian Deli with a wide assortment of meats and cheeses, fresh vegetables, and simply outstanding customer service. Joe, the owner/operator, is always happy to make any kind of sandwich your heart might desire. It is a pleasure doing business with this establishment."

George M
"Terrific sandwiches!!!!!!"

Sarah
"Great lunch menu!"

Mary Brady
"Great Customer Service and Fresh food!"

Aimee
"Joe doesn't forget your face or your taste. He remembers everything you like. I love his truffle pizza so much that he offered to teach me how to make it myself in his shop!"

Jennifer
"I visited Tutto Italiano on a tour and I watched Joe make his Fresh Homemade Mozzarella. It was really cool to watch and we got a sample...it was DELICIOUS! "

kim (cape)
"The home made mozzarella, the service, Joe goes out his way to please you. Now he is open on Sunday serving this special bread that he created I come from the cape just to get the il panino. he is the best"

Martha
"I simply love the atmosphere of his quaint Italian shop, and his service is superb!"

Amanda
"I used to live next door to Tutto's in the North End and Joe makes hands down the best Italian sub you will ever have. His bread and pasta is all handmade and fresh and his gnocchi is to die for!!"

Alex
"His smile and service are award winning themselves!"

Lex
"Joe is so personable, and his food is always fresh tasting and scrumptious. On my birthday, he went out of his way to make me feel like a valued customer!"

Linda Lord
"The Best Bread around - people know it as far as Vermont, Maine, and the Berkshires. Every time I visit they ask - Bring the Bread!!!!"

AnnaMaria
"The best all around from the food to ultimate service"